Nutrition Optimization for Climbers! Ft. Eric Horst

Nutrition Optimization for Climbers! Ft. Eric Horst


If you haven’t known yet, I injured my finger
a few weeks ago from climbing. After reading your comments, I realized the
road to recovery is often in months instead of weeks. Therefore, I have been researching what else
I can do to speed up the recovery besides resting and doing rehab exercises. I came across the world-class climbing coach
Eric Horst’s podcast and realized nutrition might be something that I can improve on the
inside. Therefore, I decided to reach out to him. If you are involved in an activity, that is
hard on the connective tissues, such as climbing, we have high forces that we load on the very
small tendons and ligaments. Tendons and ligaments are comprised of almost
completely collagen and then water. Every time you climb forcefully, you are breaking
down collagen, so your body needs to re-synthesize collagen to return homeostasis. If you are climbing everyday hard, your body
falls behind and you have net collagen degradation, injuries is just an amount of time in that
scenario. When you eat a protein source, there are a
total of 20 amino acids, but it’s the glycine and the proline just 2 of those 20 amino acids
that comprise nearly two thirds of the collagen in our tendons and ligaments. If you are eating food that have lots of other
amino acids but are low in glycine and proline, there’s a good chance that you are deficient. Now our body can make a little bit of those
amino acids, but only a few grams a day, we do need to consume additional glycine and
proline to prevent a deficiency. The target should be 10 grams of glycine per
day. Vitamin C is an essential co-factor for collagen
synthesis. There’s also trace minerals that are required
for collagen synthesis but I think most diets gets sufficient amounts of those trace minerals. Animal products are most rich in glycine and proline. If you ate 2 servings of pork per day or 2
or 3 servings of chicken, you will get the 10 grams just fine but many climbers don’t
eat much meat products so that’s where a supplemental protein source that is high in glycine and
proline can be helpful, such as hydrolyzed collagen. Hydrolyzed collagen is a more refined version
of gelatin which means it dissolves more easily. The protocol done in the research to really
optimize in target the glycine and the proline to where the body part you want is to consume
the hydrolyzed collagen one hour before you do your training, so that way the collagen
protein digest into the amino acids into your bloodstream, you get the spike of glycine
and proline in the serum at about one hour, and so that is when you want to train your
fingers or elbows or shoulders whatever body part you want to target the collagen to. The mechanical loading of the tendons, draws
in synovial fluid from around the tendons, and that is how they get most of their nourishment,
because connective tissues, tendons and ligaments are virtually avascular, there’s a little
bit of blood flow around the peripheral, some capitularies around the endo tendons, the
center of the tendons are nearly avascular, and they get their nutrition through this
fluid diffusion during exercises, and so the nourishment that you consume after you exercise
is readily carried to the muscles, because they have many capitularies, and the blood
flow continues after workout to carry nutrients to the muscle, but once you stop loading your
fingers that fluid flow in and out of the tendons and ligaments largely ceases and therefore
they have a tough time getting nutrients. The Supercharged Collagen, which is the product
that I developed over the last 2 years is based on the research, this is really the
highest in terms of concentration of glycine that you can get, even higher than pork. It has vitamin C enrichment like was done
in the research, I’ve also enriched it with L-Lucine, which is an amino acid that has
been shown to be a signal of protein synthesis in the body and I’ve also added a small amount
of Tryptophan to give it a complete amino acid profile. An athlete or a climber, who wants to supplement
or get more glycine and proline in their diet and they don’t want to eat all that meat,
the Supercharged Collagen is a product that you can go to as a supplement. If you are really into nutrition, and study
the foods you eat and know how to combine foods, I think you can get the job done without
supplemental protein but many people just don’t have the knowledge nor the discipline
to really follow through and get the job done consistently. To mix up a hydrolyzed collagen drink before
your workout is a pretty simple thing to do. Full disclosure, I am not sponsored and I
won’t receive any commission, either if you purchase anything from Physivantage. I have neither a biology nor a chemistry background
to understand the very details of the science. However, I trust Eric’s knowledge and peer
reviews for the research papers. Personally, I have recently started to consume
the supercharged collagen, but I haven’t feel an obvious effect yet. I am also not sure what’s a fair way is to
measure the effect of nutrition, either. Say, if my finger recover in a short period
of time, it could be because of nutrition, but it could also be because of rehabbing
exercises, or you could even argue that my finger injury isn’t as severe in the first
place. If you know a good way to measure nutrition,
comment below and let me know. In any case, I am going to try every possible
way to speed up my recovery so I can start making climbing videos again. Be sure to check out Eric’s podcast, website,
and YouTube channel, especially if you are serious in climbing. As always, make sure to like and subscribe. See you in the next video.

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31 thoughts on “Nutrition Optimization for Climbers! Ft. Eric Horst

  1. I drink this per recommendation of my naturopath doctor who did prolotherapy treatment on my shoulder injury. https://greatlakesgelatin.com/products/hydrolysate-single-can

  2. From what I interpret from the video, you would need to stimulate the breakdown of your tendon to encourage regrowth? Maybe why you may not “feel” anything is the injured area is not being exercised so the supplement cannot not rebuild it? I would confer with one of your previous vids with Dr. Destefano for range of motion exercise with minimal stress. I will get Eric Horst’s supplement and give it a try and let you know.

    One other aspect, not to be controversial, but you might want to “think it works”. Dr. Joe Despenza is the author of “You Are the Placebo-making your mind matter” raises a lot of good discussion from mostly “prescription medicines” vs the placebo (sugar pill). Not saying your are not healing yourself, but supplements in my mind potentially require an emotional catalyst-or belief? Sounds hokey, but when I was taking massive doses of supplements when natural bodybuilding, where I put on 40 lbs in 1 year, I believed in them. Just my 2 cents.

    Great videos as always and hope you recover soon. 🤘🙇

  3. Very nice editing to make the vid concise, that’s what I enjoy about your channel. You’re direct and get right to the point and full of helpful information. I’m glad you’re a creator and I appreciate what you’re doing.

  4. I’m always super skeptical of “studies” and “research” when someone is trying to push their own product. Regardless, please make a follow up video in a few weeks whether you think it helped or not, as this is a newer nutrition topic in climbing and even your anecdotal evidence will be helpful!

  5. The science and research side of Eric really comes out in your video. Wish his podcasts more like that and less, "Commercially". Great job and good luck with the finger.

  6. I've taken a collagen supplement a few times before climbing, about 45 minutes before my session. The taste is horrible so I'm reluctant. There is probably a heavy doze of placebo, but I really do feel like it worked. In fact, I swear I could feel my fingers recovering while I was climbing. And I didn't have the achy feeling the day after either that I usually have. So I have the feeling it works for me, although it's hard to know for sure.

  7. Hey man, I suffered a climbing injury last October, it was my 3rd shoulder dislocation and resulted in me needing surgery. I had the same opinion in the sense how do I recover as fast as possible without cutting corners. I came across Wim Hof, a man from the Netherlands who has conjured up his own cold application and breathing techniques. I was told I had to wait 6 months after my surgery to climb again. With the right nutrition rehab exercise, I included cold application and breathing meditation to my daily routine post op. And I was back climbing in 2.5 months post op and within 4 months I was stronger than I was before the injury. Placebo effect or not, it worked! I really encourage watching one of the dozens of documentary videos about Win Hof he has truly caught onto something really spectacular. Thought I'd pass my experience on incase you picked up anything you'd also like to try! Best of luck with your recovery my friend, love all your videos keep up the great work!

  8. Eric!!! Why don't you diversify? Do a video on what to do when you're injured. Exercises that compliment climbing, but don't load your fingers etc.

    A full vid on nutrition would be great – starting from basics.

  9. Great to see Eric back on here, I believe i told you about this study when i saw you at Mesa! I've been doing the regiment on Eric's channel for the past two months and I do feel a difference in how healthy my finger tendons feel overall. I'm not sure how well this works from recovering from an injury, but anecdotally it seems good for preventative measure.

  10. What a hunch off BS, these is old news… Never, never trust an dietary "expert" word that pushes you some sort of theirs supplement.

  11. Geek climber, the most impressive thing I took away from this is how you’re able to comprehend such complex English when it’s you’re second language, even I as a native speaker have to focus to understand. 我已經學中文快3年,如果我聽中文的這影片內容,我應該完全聽不懂哈哈。不但你的攀岩技術很激勵得,你的英文也是!謝謝,希望你的手上快好加油

  12. Well ok but what do I do if I do not consume animal products? 🙁 No thank you, I don't want your disgusting ground up animal bones.

  13. I just read the opposite in relation to the time you have to consume hydrolyzed collagen! I read in a academic paper that it is better to consume it 30 to 60 minutes after training……confused again …..

  14. Veganism is great for the environment and is probably more ethical towards animals. That being said, if you want to be vegan you MUST use supplements to acquire all of the vitamins and nutrients you need to be healthy. The reason our hominin ancestors expanded their cranial capacity was through the consumption of animal meat. First it was from bone marrow, then it was uncooked meat, and later cooked meat to consume nutrients at a much faster rate. AND the difference between Neanderthals and Homo sapiens is that we ate more fish which is rich in omega 3 fatty acids which lead to an explosion of intelligence, where as the Neanderthals only ate terrestrial game.
    But anyways veganism is great if you can figure out how to supplement correctly— which may be difficult because most vitamin absorption is extremely difficult without acquiring them through their main sources; i.e., food. So… I’m a bit skeptical of this collagen product 🤔

  15. Ya, I agree it would be hard to measure the results from a supplement. There are always a lot of other variables going on that make it hard to know if its causation, correlation or dumb luck.
    But you could measure nutrition with a blood test. That would be mostly for general health.
    You could also do a DEXA scan to find out your visceral (organ) fat. Generally, the more visceral fat you have, the less healthy you are.

  16. This is the first video I've seen that explained how connective tissue gets its nutrients, which is a really important bit of information.

  17. Listen to some episodes of "training beta", specifically Jared Vagy episodes about healing finger injuries. If I remember correctly he talks about blood flow stimulation/restriction techniques to aid tendon recovery.

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